Redwood Trees in Stout Grove

North Redwoods: Humboldt & Del Norte

The best places to see redwoods. With ideas for the Best Time & Dogs

This page is an off-shoot of > Largest Coast Redwoods: see for best redwood hikes lead

(Note: have an itch to climb? 2contacts: Pacific Climbing Institute of Eugene, Oregon ~ 208 miles NE of the redwoods New Tribe & Climbing Northwest of Grants Pass, 72 miles NE of the redwoods)

Copyright 2009 by Mario Vaden

Recommended Redwood Vacation Itinerary

This page is for people visiting coast redwood forests, who:

  • Are traveling primarily to see coast redwood
  • Expect to do some walking and hiking
  • Want plenty of photo opportunities to share memories and size comparison
Del Norte Titan Coast Redwood discovered by Sillett and Taylor

Certainly acquire maps and contact the visitor information centers for the parks. Some information about the redwoods and lodging, is being added to my main redwood page. Suggestions below are mainly parks & trails.

Near the end, feedback from an expert redwood forest explorer is included, in response to a question.

Best time to visit the redwoods ~ scroll to bottom

Dog owners ~ scroll to bottom for dogs & hiking

If you are coming to see the redwoods, expecially the first time, my suggestion is to visit the redwood parks of Humboldt and Del Norte counties. With a limit of 2 - 4 days, the redwoods farthest north are the ones to visit. The lovely Muir Woods is not in the same league, and although Montgomery Woods is impressive and beautiful, the variety up north suits a visit of a few days very well.

Muir Woods is big, but more of an expansive city park redwood forest, with medium size redwoods. If you need to stay close to San Francisco, that will still be okay, but I'd pick Montgomery Woods instead, as a visitor. But I encourage you to keep your sights set on the northern redwoods: the California version of an Alaska Wilderness trip.

Even from San Francisco, its only like 220 miles to Humboldt Redwoods: only 65% of my travel to Jed Smith redwoods from Beaverton every 8 weeks or so.

Odds are that you can see more sights if you get lodging like a motel, because campsite check-in and check-out times are usually between 12pm to 4pm. Those hours can be restrictive to your schedule, including time required to set-up or pack your camping gear. But do camp if it's important.

Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park: this park is at the north end of the range for California redwood parks. Its west border is almost adjacent to Crescent City, and you can enter the park using Howland Hill Road or Highway 199. Howland Hill Road is an old road through the midst of the park.

In this park, some of the best places to visit are:

  • Stout Grove
  • Simpson Reed Discovery Trail
  • Boy Scout Tree Trail
  • Howland Hill Road
  • Mill Creek Trail

Those are my top picks for starters. On rare occassions, Howland Hill Road is closed due to storms. That could isolate you from Boy Scout Tree Trail, but unlikely. Faced with that rare occurance, hike from Hy. 199 on the Hiouchi Trail to where it meets Mill Creek Trail. At that point, you can cross over Mill Creek right into Stout Grove, and then cross back to continue on Mill Creek Trail for maybe a mile extra, then backtrack your route to Hy. 199 again.

Unless a future Tsunami obliterates the town, Crescent City is a full-service place with lodging, food, clothes and more. If you have an extra few hours, travel east along the scenic Smith River for 10 or 20 miles. If you have an extra day to spare, the Oregon coast toward Brookings and Gold Beach is gorgeous. Consider maybe 50 miles of Oregon Coastline.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park: this is the next major old growth redwood park to the south. It is very close to the town of Orick, California. On the way, along Highway 101, you will drive through some nice looking coastal forest between Crescent City and Klamath, but keep Prairie Creek as a top priority. There is a Trees of Mystery stop along the way near Klamath, and its probably worth a quick pit stop for 1 or 2 hours.

In this park, some of the best places to visit are:

  • James Irvine Trail: at least the first 1 or 2 miles.
  • Big Tree across Drury Parkway from the visitor center, but a short way north
  • Brown Creek Trail
  • Arco Giant Redwood: ask for a path | road from the south end of the prairie stretching into forest
  • Prairie Creek Trail starting from the visitor center end: at least 1 or 2 miles
  • Fern Canyon ~ see note below

Fern Canyon is pretty nifty. But its either a 9 mile round trip hike, or you will need to travel around the park on roads to get there. If you are accustomed to visiting destinations like Eagle Creek Trail in Oregon, the Grand Canyon or similar, I'd suggest skipping Fern Canyon if going there means sacrificing spots like Brown Creek Trail or part of James Irvine Trail.

So far, I've been able to get fuel in Orick during daytime. Unless you will be near Prairie Creek or Redwood National Park near Orick for more than a day, I would skip lodging in that Hamlet, and stay near Eureka, Fortuna, or maybe Crescent City.

Redwood National Park: this is almost adjacent to the town of Orick, to its east. The main access is Bald Hills Road off Highway 101

Some fo the best places to visit are:

  • Lady Bird Johnson Grove
  • Tall Trees Grove
  • About 5 to 10 extra miles of scenic travel past Lady Bird Johnson Grove if you have the time

Lady Bird Johnson Grove parking is maybe 5 minutes up Bald Hills Road. An easy grove to reach. It is a pretty easy walk. I don't think that "hike" describes it. An all ages place. Its attractive, and popular in summer.

Tall Trees Grove a favorite of mine. Its got a lot more going for it than many reviews. Some folks don't realize exactly whats in that grove area. And I don't mean Hyperion or Helios redwoods. Even some experienced hikers and writers have underestimated the grove in their reviews. But you need to take your time. Look at all the species in there including old growth Douglas fir and several hardwoods. The bigleaf maples are amazingly nice Its smooth sailing going down the trail. But a bit vigorous for the 1.3 mile return. Personally, in summer, I prefer to get there first thing, to hike back up before the weather warms. Although warm at the coast is not that warm. I don't recommend taking children under 8 to 10 years. If you took a 4 year old, you would pay in sweat carrying them all the way up.

The drive along Bald Hills Road is hard to convey with words. Its very scenic. There are Prairies on the hills that meet the redwoods. With wildflowers in spring, and Roosevelt Elk much of the year

Humboldt Redwoods and Rockfeller Forest: the Rockefeller Forest and Avenue of the Giants area is expansive and scenic with towering old growth. There are so many trails, parking areas and nearby attractions, I'm pretty certain that you will want to use a visitor center and several online resources to select places to visit. The reason I'm writing about it here, is primarily encouragement to make sure it remains on your itinerary. For either the beginning or the end of a 3 day redwoods visit.

Most people want to be sure and see Founders Tree or Giant tree for photos. Whereas Jedediah Smith is often good for a full day for most folks, I think that the Rockefeller Forest area could be worth 2 days, on a 4 day trip, primarily because of all the other attractions of interest in nearby towns on the perimeter. Although you could spend an easy two days hiking here

Ask about a Mahon Plaque trail marker and the Women's Federation Grove too.

The drive beween Rockefeller Forest and Prairie Creek will provide many sources for supplies, lodging and food in Eureka and Arcata. Plus several other towns

Michael Taylor ~ Redwood Forest Explorer ~ His Favorites

For extra feedback, I emailed Michael Taylor, an expert redwood explorer, about the redwood parks. Michael is the co-discoverer of Hyperion, the tallest known redwood, and has been hiking and exploring the redwood parks for much of his life. I asked which are his favorite parks as pertains to pure enjoyment. He listed his favorites in this order, beginning with Humboldt:

1. Humboldt Redwoods State Park ~ especially Rockefeller Forest
2. Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park & Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park ~ virtual tie
3. Redwood National Park
4. Montgomerery Woods State Natural Reserve ~ NW of Ukiah taking Highway 101 and Orr Springs Rd.
5. Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park ~ near Carlotta, Ca. ~ closed until 2011
6. Hendy Woods State Park ~ near Boonville, about 18 miles W x SW from Ukiah, CA, as the crow flies
7. Richardson Grove State Park ~ 7 miles south of Garberville, CA ~ closed until 2001
8. Headwaters Forest Reserve ~ near Fortuna, CA

Best time to visit the redwoods ~ The best time to visit the redwoods, depends on what you want to do, and what weather you can become comfortable in. Personally, I like October to June, when the weather is relatively cool and moist. And from November to April, it begins to feel like you almost have the place to yourself. The ultimate for me, would be winter, like December and January. The owner of redwoodhikes.com has also written that winter is the best time. But winter weather variables may be challenging for redwood vacation travelers coming from across the country.

Spring: around May, the Rhododendrons are blooming. If you are committed to taking Rhody photos, then of course this is the best time in the redwoods for you. Late spring brings freshly grown fern fronds.

Summer: there are more cars, but not many. Trails are not busy, and don't compare the north redwood trails to Muir Woods in summer. Early summer, you will see some nice lilies in several areas.

Autumn: some fall color of course. Mosses become more green. Some colorful fungi and mushrooms start emerging from the forest floor and logs.

Winter: actually provides greater view corridors because you can see farther. Deciduous leaves have fallen, exposing more opportunities for photos. The moss is very green. Some trunks are almost have flourescent-like highlights. Some parks have seasonal ponds. Falling water droplets can almost sound musical. Dust has washed from the foliage of evergreens like huckleberry and ferns. There are hundreds of small seasonal brooks and waterfalls. With few visitors, you feel like being in a private park.

Dog owners ~ Most redwood parks don't allow dogs on trails. But there is enough to keep you and your dog busy for 3 days. In Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park use the old Howland Hill stage road as your trail, with some of the best old growth in the park. Several miles. In summer, it will be dusty from cars. The same park provides Walker Road, off Highway 199. There is also the campground paved loop and day use area. You have several beaches near Jedediah Smith. And personally, I'd add Brookings, Oregon, area Harris Beach and Lone Ranch Beach if I was near Jed Smith redwoods.

Then in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, take Cal-Barrel Road all year. Hardly any traffic even in summer. Gate often locked, but just walk right around it. Miles worth of old growth walking. Traffic is often light along the paved Drury Parkway, and most of it has plenty of shoulder room and a lot of old growth redwood. Miles of redwoods.

For Redwood National Park, there is an old road up at Lost Man Creek. Ask for the directions at the Crescent City, Prairie Creek, or Orick visitor centers.

Then Humboldt Redwoods State Park near Avenue of the Giants, walk along Mattole Road. Some summer traffic, but okay. And the Avenue if you like. There is a short drive to the Woman's Federation Grove. And likewise a nice paved lane that leads to and passes Founders Grove, off Avenue of the Giants.

Just one of those walking hiking options for each park, would be plenty. The redwoods are huge. And you are going to pass by rivers, beaches and turnouts. If you couple that with meal times and a few stops for supplies, you can have a fine redwood experience.

Maps below - left, from Portland; right, from San Francisco


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