Pond, Waterfall and Water Feature Design

Calls accepted from Portland, Beaverton, Lake Oswego, Tigard, Hillsboro, Seaside

For Portland, Wilsonville, Beaverton, Tualatin and other west Oregon towns, I design small to medium-large water features. Homeowners can run water features and ponds almost all year in western Oregon.

Water feature care can be relatively easy. Choices include ponds, creekbeds, pondless features, drilled rock, urns and waterfalls.

For one example, the moss rock water feature in the image to the left is in a video - this is a high speed internet size file: Water Feature Video.

That's an example of a middle size project with several falls, plenty of plants and very low electricity consumption.

Waterfalls can be built with big pumps for large volumes of water flow. But, a well designed waterscape doesn't need a big pump. Decide in advance whether you want a relaxing tranquil water feature or one with more excitement and volume.

There are many ways to design a water feature. Would you like stones set across a pond like step stones? How about a series of mini waterfalls like the moss rock water feature below?

An aspect of landscaping where corners can't be cut, is with water features. The best liners must be used. Each rock must be checked for sharp edges. The grade must be double checked.

Ponds can be dug by machine or by hand. After excavation, thick rubber liner can be placed directly on the soil. But, adding a preliminary layer of protective fabric, and possibly a layer of sand helps if grit, gravel or roots present a puncture hazard. Consider adding a second layer of rubber liner (or remnants) underneath heavy rocks or boulders as added protection. In some neighborhoods where construction materials (like nails) were discarded in soil, extra barriers are needful. We don't encourage using old carpet since it can contain and conceal old staples and strange items.

Tamping the entire base of the pond, helps to protect liner by flattening and dulling pointy objects like stones.

Straight pond sides can help discourage predators, but if you keep no fish, then any kind of slope is possible. The edges can be varied to provide ledges at different depths to accomodate a variety of beautiful aquatic plants. The upper ledges should allow at least 6" to 9" of water depth.

Water lily does well in areas of about 18" to 24" of water depth. Submerged plants, called oxygenators can be set at various deptths. Those are not absolutely needed, since waterfalls, or moving water can also add oxygen to the pond.

One of the best ingredients for excellent pond conditions are several, or many aquatic plants. They remove toxins and also nutrients that can overload the pond water. Algae growth is increased by warm water temperature and abundant organic matter in the water. Aquatic plants help reduce both of those algae generating elements. Plants do this by using the organic matter and shading the water, keeping it cooler. But if you won't have fish, there are additive alternatives.

Don't scrub or sterilize your pond to a sparkling clean. The soft natural green coating that grows on rocks and the bottom will provide an oasis for beneficial organisms. There are good bacteria in ponds too, and you don't want to kill them with chlorine bleach, or by replacing too large a volume of water at one time from a treated water source. Light additions of city water are usually not a problem.

Pond filters can be added, but we can allow ponds to achieve a natural balance by using water plants and keeping the water moving with an appropriate sized pump. If you do have a filter installed, the water in a new pond should be de-chlorinated to allow desired bacteria to live in the filter.

Water will evaporated from ponds. This can be reduced with shade from trees, and aquatic plants like the floating Water Hyacinth or Water Lily. Tree shade is okay, but better from the side, than above since leaves or seeds can affect water quality. Ponds can be filled with a hose, an emitter or sprinkler from an irrigation system, and possibly water diverted from a rain gutter. There are autofill valves too.

Don't mistake evaporation for a leak. Without aquatic plants, my own pond's water level went down by as much as 1/2" per day whey the temperature was near 90 degrees. The more shade and aquatic plants, the less the evaporation. Also, longer creekbeds, and longer series of falls, can increase evaportion loss. If creekbeds are shallow and much of the water-course has stone protruding above the water surface, that means less surface area of water and less loss of water from evaporation.

It's important to learn about "rise". A larger pump is needed to move water 4' up in elevation that is needed to move water 2' up in elevation. With the right pump, one pump can operate several water features if the elevations are set right and the features have drains.

Watering and Irrigation: generally, I prefer to irrigate my water feature area thoroughly. In natural settings, many waterfall and creek areas are very moist or misty from water, humidity or mist. That keeps rocks and edges around the water area green and moist. Personally, that's the look I prefer.

Consider designation one zone of an irrigation system for just the water feature. Auto-fillers can be used for the water level too, but plenty of water can be added by irrigating the rocks, pond or creekbed with one or multiple misting sprinklers. This is especially good for keeping mossy rocks green, and small plants tucked in among the rock and boulders.

If you have pressure and water volume to spare on existing lawn and shrub zones, consider adding sprinklers to moisten the water feature. When the drip system zone comes on, one extra micro-spray head can mist the water feature. When the lawn zone is on, another head can do the same thing, or spray the waterfall area. Likewise with the shrub beds. It all depends if your system is maxed-out or has potential to spare without depleting the zones too much.

If you prefer something much smaller, try fountains: visit Garden-Fountains.com and check out the selection. Wall fountains, garden fountains - English, Italian, Asian, Etc.. All kinds.