Selecting Pruning Tools
Afterward, check out one of our newer pages Redwoods: Grove of Titans.
People who professionally prune shrubs and trees (should) keep high quality tools because those make work easier, promote plant health and save time. Those are benefits that home owners can enjoy, so its sensible to buy the same high quality equipment for pruning.
Well-made pruning tools:
1. Make work easier - High quality tools are sharp and are designed with ergonomic features such as rotating handles to reduce stress on muscles and joints. Sharp blades or teeth make work easier and faster.
2. Promote plant health - Sharp tools make a clean, smooth cut that can “heal” or close over quickly. Dull, cheap, poorly aligned tools make jagged cuts and tear tissue.
3. Save time - Most high quality pruning tools come already sharpened and are designed for parts replacement and future sharpening of blades and teeth. Sharp tools cut better and save time during pruning projects. In addition, high quality tools should not break as frequently, reducing time loss from visiting the supply store again.
My choices for work and home:
Don't waste money on cheap pruning equipment. Spend the extra $40 to $80 for your primary two or three pruning tools. Maybe you have the money now or maybe you need to do a garage sale, but don't buy the cheap trash. The good “stuff” is not all that much more money.
These are BASIC pruning tools and equipment that I prefer to use:
1. Felco Hand Pruners – Actually, mine are from 1984, and are stamped FELCO and CORONA with a model #82. This is the equivalent of what's on the market now as FELCO #2 bypass hand pruners. This pair of hand pruners is – 2007– about $40. These are strong, lightweight and have a replaceable blade and spring as well as other small parts. That pair of hand pruners has been used regularly since 1984, and according to a rough estimate - using a calculator - performed in the range of 400,000 to 500,000 pruning cuts – just that single pair. In contrast, another arborist and I, each bought a $12 replica as a backup pair. The cheap ones broke on the first day of use – for both of us. High quality tools like Felco hand pruners are a good investment. There are also Felco hand pruners with a handle that rotates. These make work easier for some people. For me, the rotating handles cause problems when pruning trees on a ladder. Pruning cuts are made to the left and to the right side while standing on a ladder by moving the hand pruners from one hand to the other. If a rotating handle is used it would have to be placed under the thumb for some cuts – with the pruners flipping loose and dropping to the ground. This results from adapting to the need to keep the blade closest to the tree part that will remain.
2. Short Felco 20 bypass loppers - About twice the length of hand pruners. These model 20 pruning tools were in use for years. By now, you might find other models. There are various kinds - what I call “mini-loppers” - some with wood handles and some with metal handles. I prefer the strong aluminum handle bypass loppers. These short pruning tools are very maneuverable in trees and shrubs and serve the purposes of a lopper and substitute for hand pruners. Sometimes when hundreds of cuts need to be made by hand, I prefer to use the miniature loppers. This divides the work and strain of one hand to two hands instead. And the benefit of leverage is also available. This can reduce long term internal hand injury. These – 2007– are in the $70 price range.
3. Full size Hickok (ARS) bypass loppers – this particular pair, about 30 inches long, was made by ARS. That company also makes handsaws. Cost – 2007 – is near $75. Like my hand pruners and short handled loppers, these are also a “BYPASS” cutting tool. This means they have a sharp blade that passes by a flat sided hook and cuts branches with a scissor action. There are other pruners called “ANVIL” pruners which are inferior. An anvil pruning tool cuts a branch when it's blade closes and presses down on the other half which is a piece of flat-faced metal. Instead of using a clean-cutting scissor action, anvil pruners crush tissue, making a cut that's comparable in quality to an axe chopping a piece of wood or a meat cleaver hacking down on a bone – where the chopping block or cutting board symbolize the flat-faced anvil portion. But, a bypass lopper will cut with a slicing action, providing a better cut. Long handled bypass loppers are convenient if a branch itoo large to cut with a hand pruner.
4. A “Long-reach” pruner – This type of pruning tool can vary from about 4 feet to 8 feet long. Basically, these are a hand pruner with handles to squeeze at one end and small cutters at the other end. Mine are made by ARS and have a tiny bypass lopper style cutting head. In addition, the cutting head has a small “gripper”; when the cut is made, the tool grips and retains the twig. These are ideal for trimming small twigs from 1/8” to about 3/8” like ends of grape vines on an arbor and other out of reach twigs. Some long-reach pruners have a rotating shaft that enable right and left hand use of the pruning tool. These long-reach pruning tools are – 2007– about $70.
5. Professional quality handsaw – The handsaws I use include ARS and Silky.
If you don't have a dealer for Silky saws in your city, contact the Silky Store site.
Some saw blade manufacturers bend the teeth sideways so the saw teeth will cut a groove that's wider than the main part of the saw blade. Sideways-bent teeth can prevent a blade from becoming pinched but it's better to use a professional grade saw and learn how to use it. A little bending of the teeth is okay – slight. With slight sideways pressure on a branch, a saw won't become stuck. Also, a professional quality saw is recognized by the tips of the teeth – close inspection should show at least 3 sharpened edges per tooth. A good saw should have teeth with tips that appear faceted on the ends.
Avoid handsaws that have a few deep notches in the blade. Some manufactures, even ARS, make blades with notches; not for cutting but for clearing saw dust. There is nothing wrong with notched blades for pruning larger tree limbs, but the notched blades will damage smaller branches on trees or shrubs. Consider buying a handsaw with teeth running uninterrupted across the entire blade. I prefer handsaws with curved blades and a handle which has a slight downward protrusion at the back end of it. The protruding section of handle at the end prevents hands from slipping off and requires less energy to grip the saw handle – in other words, a saw with a curved blade and a bump on the handle makes work a lot easier.
If your budget allows, you might also consider Silky tree pruning saw equipment: both handsaws and pole pruning tree saws. These also, are some of the finest.
6. A cheap folding saw – With my “pitch” for high quality tools, someone may wonder why I use a CHEAP saw. The reason is to preserve my expensive saw blade and keep it sanitary. Occasionally, branches or stems, too large for loppers, must be cut so low that the saw blade will get into the soil or rub gravel and grit. This is when I pull the CHEAP handsaw out of the tool box. My cheap folding saw is for the few times I need to cut near the ground so that my expensive saw stays “razor” sharp and clean.
7. Spray can of lubricant – My preference is a spray can of lubricant used for motorcycle chains. This is for my bypass loppers, hand pruners and scissor action hedge shears. WD 40 and other manufactures have spray lubricants available, but I prefer the motorcycle chain lube because it does not drip off as easily. Also, every time I refill my chainsaw with fuel and bar oil, I spray the saw chain to start off “on the right foot”. Sometimes I spray this lube oil on the saw chain more frequently; an example is removing a dead tree. Dead trees are often very dry. The wood has no moisture for lubrication and the dry sawdust is absorbent and can absorb bar oil from the chain faster than the saw can pump oil from its chamber.
8. Chainsaw – I have 3 chainsaws right now – Husqvarna, Stihl and Echo (oh, and a $99 Poulan that I'll discuss). Honestly, I've had good success with each of these. Each of the 3 brands had a premature minor problem of inconsequential significance. I think one of the most important matters about a saw is that it can be repaired. I usually prefer to avoid the big-name home supply stores and purchase my saws from a commercial tree tool or lawn care supply store. This kind of commerce can affect the rate at which a saw is repaired – it's faster in many cases.
My Echo chainsaw - the light saw - is designed with a center handle that makes it very easy to use – it's very balanced and comfortable to hold. If all you need is a small chainsaw, consider one like the Echo, or other brand, that has a handle in the center that runs front to back. Hold a display model and you will find out for yourself how easy those are to handle. Other brands include Stihl and Husqvarna.
As for other chainsaws, the debates can go on forever. From my experience, most are good. If your needs are small, like pruning – not tree removals – you can get plenty of chainsaw for $300 or less. My preferences are Stihl, Husqvarna and Echo.
Most pruning can be done with 3 tools (I barely call shearing “pruning”). Pruning can be done with a handsaw, hand pruner and loppers. Somebody could even start a business with these and advance from there. I'd say that 80% of my work is done with these.
Actually, some people can prune with just 2 tools – the handsaw and the hand pruner. If you master using these two tools, you can prune faster than someone relying on 3 tools (adding the lopper). My loppers come out of the toolbox about every third day.
Hand pruners can easily cut branches up to about 5/8” thick. And if you learn to apply slight pressure to the limb, the blade cuts through more easily. Just enough pressure to cause a faster cut, but not so much as to break or tear the limb or bark. Then, if you acquire a “razor” sharp arborist saw, it can cut any branch over 5/8” thick. In fact, if the handsaw is sharp, it can cut limbs as small as 3/8” thick. By relying on just these two tools, we can “cover a lot of ground” in “no time at all”.
Experience will demonstrate that the time needed to prune rises significantly when we have to drag a lopper around with a handsaw and hand pruner. So I either leave my lopper in the tool box, or lean it nearby for the few times it's needed.
All I will add about gas or electric POLE-CHAINSAWS is that they are very nice at times. I prefer hand tools in many cases, often choosing a handsaw unless many limbs are over 3”. And frequently, I use a muscle powered pole saw instead of a power one. But if you choose to use a powered pole pruner with a saw chain:
a. Read the manual
b. Wear a hardhat and protective eyewear
c. Don't stand directly under the pieces that will fall
d. No need to cut one large piece – dissect a limb in small increments
If you would like to buy an inexpensive pole pruner that has the saw and a lopper with pulley and rope, feel free. I caution against buying the pole pruners that have a chain near the lopper cutting head. These models with chains have caused more “headache” than any pruning equipment I have ever used.
For many people with minor pruning needs, I can understand why they would buy the inexpensive pole pruners. But those are hard to use many times because the rope and pulley mechanism get snagged in the tree when the saw is being used. Or, the saw gets in the way when the lopper part is used. I prefer poles on which the saw or lopper can be used separately. These should be preferred by homeowners with large yards and significant pruning needs or by landscape and tree care professionals that will be pruning every week.
One pole pruner I've used, has either a saw blade or lopper attachment on the end of fiberglass poles. The cutting tools are detachable, and pole sections can be added to one another. Places like Tree Tools near Portland, Oregon sell these.
I had my poles custom made to 6' long – three of them. That's 18' of reach. For one entire year, these poles and the saw were all I needed. I did not buy the lopper attachment until one year later, and I rarely use it. Most useful pruning on a tree where a pole pruner is used will be done with the saw – not the rope and lopper.
Below, next to the Silky handsaw, is a Silky telescopic pole saw. Silky makes several styles of pole saws varying from a single pole to telescopic ones which adjust. The model below has a folding blade and scabbard - ideal for transporting or storing.
Feel free to visit the Silky website and the menu for products or dealer to order. Silky USA provides tree trimming tools for professionals and homeowners: handsaws, pole saws, craft saws and outdoors saws.
Let's start with orchard ladders. These are basically 3 legged ladders - 2 rear legs with rungs connected to a third, pole-like leg in front. Many people have not seen these ladders. And other people have no idea where to buy one.
Our first orchard ladder came from Teufel Nursery in Beaverton. In 1988, that 10' aluminum ladder was about $100 - roughly $10 per foot. The same ladder is now - 2002 - about $155. A 6' aluminum orchard ladder is about $105, and a 12' one is around $190.
I've seen these ladders up to 16'. They come in 2 foot increments. They are easier to stand in a stable position than a 4 leg ladder in most landscape areas. Also, the hinging front leg of the orchard ladder can be inserted into, over or through the canopy of a shrub. That can't be done very often with a 4 legged ladder. This makes orchard ladders effective for gutter cleaning at houses where shrubs are located around the building walls. That may not work for 2 story houses, but certainly for single story ones.
Never forget to read the directions for an orchard ladder. Those should be found attached to the inside of the side rails. There should be important information about the maximum and minimum angles for the front leg placement. If the leg is too far out, the ladder can be unstable. If the leg is too close, the ladder can be unstable. These are excellent ladders, but I can tell you from experience, you want the legs positioned right. And stand behind the ladder to make sure the front leg is centered. When you first step on an orchard ladder, thrust your weight forward, and also down on each side of the first rung to really plant the legs in the ground if you can.
These ladders, as well as other pruning tools, are available now from TREE TOOLS in Lake Oswego, Oregon. Their site www.treetools.com - check that for their phone number or address.
TREE TOOLS has an excellent supply of hand pruning saws with remarkable sharpness, providing excellent pruning cuts. These sharp tools make pruning more like a hobby than intense labor. This is our favorite source for POLE PRUNING tools. Why buy a second rate tool at a hardware store, when you can buy professional tools for an affordable price. Tree Tools can assemble “snap-together” fiberglass pole sections in lengths of your choice. I carry our poles in a 6' truck bed, so I have three 6' fiberglass poles. We keep our pole pruning saw blade separate from the lopping cutter head. Why fight with a lopper and saw attached together? Our three 6' poles add to 18'. When we add the 10' of our orchard ladder, that allows us to cut small limbs to almost 30' - remember, you may not want to cut directly overhead; if the limbs drop straight down, you can get smacked in the head. Position yourself away from underneath the cut, and consider a hard hat, even safety glasses for looking upward while sawdust is falling. The fiberglass poles at Tree Tools were much, much cheaper than Corona professional type fiberglass poles at a Portland landscape supplier.
There is a hook attachment that can snap on these fiberglass poles too. If a limb gets caught, unsnap the saw, put on the hook, then reach and yank the limb from overhead.
Professional tool suppliers are worth the visit. There are many tools that retail stores do not carry. Like miniature lopper type cutting heads on the end of 4' to 8' long extension rods with squeeze handles. The cutting heads even have a pair of “grippers” to hang onto the twig once the blade finishes the cut. This is wonderful for cutting twigs on vines and other hard to reach places.
For hand saws, buy the professional grade arborist saws from a tree tool or landscape supply place. Whether a pro supplier or retail store, buy a saw with a laminated wood handle. Plastic handles break too easily. And solid wood handles break along the wood grain. Laminated handles have criss-cross layers of wood grain, therefore these last much longer.
Professional pruning saws can usually be sharpened twice. After 2 sharpenings, the “valleys” between teeth become too shallow to clear the sawdust properly. Sharpening should be about $6. New replacement blades are near $18 each. Replacement blades are less expensive than entire new handsaws.
If you need a small chainsaw for light infrequent use - 2” to 12” cuts, maybe 4 hours per year - spend $100 to $200. If you exceed that use level, then you are either a semi-pro or a homeowner with a chunk of land. Then you may as well invest $300 minimum. Why not spend less? Because you may as well buy a saw that is fun. Go at least one level above your need. You'll see what I mean.
We bought a Power Pole pruner - motorized chainsaw on a pole - from Tree Tools. The brand is Echo. What a great investment. Wear your goggles if you use one. Also, some models come apart in the middle, others do not. That may be important to you for storage and transportation.